2015.01.15
APEC Costume Designer Chu Yan’s Discussion on the Inheritance of Traditional Chinese Costumes
On January 10, 2015, APECT “New Chinese Suit” designer Chu Yan was invited to the 2014 Times Culture Complex • Nandu Art Salon to give a speech on the development of traditional Chinese fashion and share her ideas about Chinese costumes and the stories behind APEC costumes.
·Chu Yan, the APEC costume designer
Her “New Chinese Suit” design stands out
On November 10, 2014, the “New Chinese Suit” designed by Chu Yan was made public on APEC and state leaders of 21 countries and their spouses attended APEC banquet in the new costumes. The big “Asia-Pacific family” had a picture together outside the banquet hall. How did her design stand out among over 1000 designs?
Chu Yan has been a well-known designer before her APEC design was made public. The work took her nearly a year with repeated adaptations and multiple discussions. Chu Yan had better understanding of Chinese costumes. “The experts on panel and leaders are all confused about how to inherit and innovate the culture of our traditional costumes. The focus in preliminary discussions lies with where we inherit the culture from, dynasties or nationalities?”
Finally it was decided to adopt stand collar, cardigan and one-piece raglan sleeve in the costumes for state leaders and their spouses. Men’s costumes are made from Svastika Song brocade in jacquard-weave sea-bank pattern; women’s costumes go with stand-collar cheongsam in cardigan and coat with one-piece raglan sleeve. The costumes are made from Song brocade because it is listed on World Intangible Cultural Heritage and among the “three famous brocades” together with Nanjing brocade and Sichuan brocade, and it can be fabricated by computerized jacquards.
Chinese costumes must go with Chinese culture and etiquette
Chu Yan has kept thinking what costume is the best representative of Chinese culture. She has done research on the works of many Western designers and found out that most of them put Chinese elements on their designs just because they think it is pleasing to the eye, never considering whether they go with Chinese culture and etiquette. “I don’t think a costume can be called Chinese just because it has dragon, phoenix and coiled buttons on it.” Chu Yan believes that many modern Westerners have found costumes of Qing Dynasty most typical Chinese but ignored those of Song, Ming and other dynasties when Chinese people had more advanced aesthetic concepts of Chinese culture. “Knowing this, you can make better Chinese costumes, whether with peony or any other flowers.”
·Exhibit of Chu Yan’s “New Chinese Suit” .
·Exhibit of Chu Yan’s “New Chinese Suit” .
·Exhibit of Chu Yan’s “New Chinese Suit” .
In the end of the salon, Chu Yan exhibited her best works of “New Chinese Suit” for the first time in Guangzhou. Models in beautiful costumes walk on stage and present the amazing beauty of traditional Chinese costume culture.
Times Culture Complex · Nandu Art Salon
“Times Culture Complex · Nandu Art Salon” is a brand activity carried out by Guangzhou’s new cultural landmark – Times Culture Complex brand campaign and Southern Metropolis Daily. Since its opening in July 2013, it has invited 27 artists, designers and cultural elite, including Jin Daiqiang, Liang Wendao, Li Yongquan, Wang Shouzhi, Jiang Qionger and Li Wanqiang, to talk about their works. This is the final grand session for the Year of Horse to bring a more thrilling feast for the eyes. After the spring festival of 2015, there will be more salons for our audience. Coming soon!
